Trimming-machine.



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L alf-gf@ f2 l@ IIIIIIIIIIt l n.: I 85 C. D. MATTISON. TRIMMING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 3l, 1913. RENEWED FEB. 26. |917- l ,240, 23 Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

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1 .35 at 14e' l I "o m @mm Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

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C. D. MATTISON.

TRIMMING MACHINE. .APFLlCATiO'N FILED DEC. 3l; 1913. RENEWED FEB. 26,1917.

5,' 75'/ x fZ C. D. MATTISON.

TRIMMING MACHINE. APPucATloN man 11m31.191s. RENEwED FEB. 2s. 1911.

1,240,237. Panted sem. 18,1917.,

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.sam v 1413 a A 691 :s "-:3 90 /Jm ya n CHARLES n. ivrArTrsoN,

s'rnfr l a 0E Hasnrtouoir HEIGHTS, NEW JERSEY, .essreivort r.ro THE Eric.

UNITRIM COMPANY, INC;, OF NEN YORK, vN. Y., A CORPORATION 0F NEW YORK.

maritieme-MACHINE.

.To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES D. MArrrsoN, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Hasbrouck Heightain the county of Bergen and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements vin Trimming-Machines, of which the following Vis a specification.

This invention relates toa machine for trimming fabrics having embroidery or other raised work thereon. Its principal object is to provide a machine of simple and eiiicient construction and operation whereby the trimming of the fabric'along a path definedby the contour of the relief or raised work shall be rapidly accomplished. To this end my invention, broadly considered, comprehends va trimming machine having a cutting element, the successive functional positions of which in respect tothe cutting path are determined by the relief of the vfabric irrespective -of theconfiguration or yornamentation of the relief. y

The invention also comprises novell feed mechanism whereby the fabric may befed in a variable path.

The invention also comprises various features of construction and combinations of parts whereby the feeding of the fabric and the progressive operations of the cutting ele ment are relatively effected and controlled, all of which, together with structural charsl acteristics whereby advantages are secured, will be hereinafter particularly described and claimed.

While I have shown in the drawings and shall hereinafter describe in detail a machine illustrating a preferred form of embodiment of my invention, it is to be understood that I do not limit myself to the precise ymechanisms pointed out, as the same may be modified without departing from the spirit of the invention. It is further to be understood that while the form of machine herein illustrated is particularly designed for the trimming of vembroidered fabrics, yet the apparatus may be adapted to the trimming or severing of any kind of fabric having raised or relief work thereonof any former configuration; such raised or relief work in any case being the determining -factor for the path of the cutting element duringthe trimming or severing operation. Furthermore, that while the feed mechanism embodying my invention is especially adapted to use in ,Specifcationof Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

Renewed February 26, 1917. Serial No. 151,145.

connection with trimming instrumentalities of the character herein set forth, such feed mechanism-is not limited to use in that specific relation. In the accompanying drawingsvFigure l is a vertical section, partly in elevation, of a trimming machine embodying my invention.

Fig. 2 is a transverse horizontal section, as on the line 2 2 of Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a partial transverse section, enlarged, as on the line'3 3 vof Fig. 5, showing the rack and pinion devices, and adjuncts, for rotating the Cutter rod. In this view the rack is shown at the limit of its forward stroke.

Fig. l is a similar section showing the position of the parts with the rack at the limit of its rearward stroke. Fig. 5 is a transverse Vvertical section through the machine, as on the line 5 5 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a transverse horizontal sectionas on the line 6 6 of Fig. l.

7 is a sectional detail as on the line 7 7 of Fig. 5. v

Figs. 8, 9 and 10 are views, in plan, of the cutter and feed heads, showing the cutter in various angular positions.

11Y is a suitable casing within which are contained the various mechanisms, with the exception of the die plate 12 and'itssupporting and actuating parts. rFhe top 13 of this casing constitutes a. work table through a suitably disposed opening 14 in which are operable the feedand cutting devices to be hereinafter described. The die plate is movable toward and from the feed so that it may be lowered upon or raised from the interposed fabric to be trimmed. In the present instance the die plate com- 'prises a disk having a central stud 15 which with which cooperates an appropriate cam -l lever 22 which is pivotally supported on the arm. .The cam surface of this lever is so shapedv that by the act of lifting the lever the part 23 of such surface, impinging vagainst the stud, raises the stem and die plate, and the part 23X then contacts with the stud and serves as a rest therefor to maintain the stem and die plate in raised position.. `A downward movement of the lever will permit the stem 'and die plate to resume their Vdown position, The cam lever is held normally in engagement with the stud 2l by the action of a spring-pressed r stud 24 against an angular shouldered porvin lowered position.

tion 25 of the lever, which latter stud projects throngh a horizontal slot 26 in the armplate. This head has capacity for variable movement vertically and horizontally as may be prescribed by the nature of the fabric and the contour of the embroidery or other relief thereon, as will presently appear. The head is slidingly fitted for relative vertical movementwithin the Ulmer cylindrical extension 30 of a hollow cone 8l which depends below the table, the head being maintained yieldingly raised by the action of a spring 32 suitably disposed Within the head and the extension. The extent of relative vertical movement of the head is limited by a stud 33 thereon projecting into a vertical slot 34 in the extension 30.

In the present instance theV extension is slidingly fittedl to a collar 35 having a rounded bearing member 36 which is seated lfor rocking movement within a corresponding socket member 37 located within the opening 14 of the table. rIhe socket member 37 depends from the upper and is secured to the lower of two spaced rings 38 which freely embrace the table, so as to permit a limited horizontal movement in all directions of such member and the parts supported thereby. The rings 38 close the opening about the feed and thus preclude the entrance of lint and pieces of severed fabric to the interior of the casing and the mech- Rnism therein. This cover. structure may be omitted if desired. y

The basal portion of the hollow cone 3l is provided with laterally-extending lugs 39 to which are securedthe upper ends of two depending rods 40, the lower ends of which are connected by a yoke'4l which constiis formed on or aflixed to a driving wheel.

.49 mounted to turn on a fixedv stud within the casing, thev v lever .arm being equipped with a roll 50 which runs in the cam groove'. This cam groove being of oval form is adapted during` its rotation to vedect the timely oscillation of thev crank lever and the universal joint connection,V thereby transmitting through lthe rods 40 an up and down motion to and yet permitting variable horizontal movement of the hollow cone and its feed head. Encircling the cone is a vertically reciprocable ring 5l which, in conjunction with an internal eccentric member 52 within the latter, acts upon the external and internal surfaces respectively of the cone to .control and determine the variable movement of the cone and the feed head. rIhe ring 5l is borne by the upper end .of'a vertically reciproca-ble frameincluding'two upright parallel bars 53, which are sup.- portedV by and between guides 53X on the inner side of one of the walls of the casing. A .cross-piece 54 of the frame is connected' by` means of a link 55 with a lever 55 which is pivotally supported at one end on a lug on the casing. The other .end of this lever is Vconnected by means of a link 57 lwith the .end of a lever 58that is, in turn, pivotally supported .on .a lug` von the casing. The lever '.58 lies laterally adj acent'the cam 47 and is provided with a roll 59 that runs in the cam groove, Vwhereby during the rotation of the cam the lever and link connections are actuated to effect the timely rising and falling motion'cf .the frame and its appurtenances. i

The internal eccentric member 52 above referred to has .an outer inclined. edge which. is adapted to contact with the internal wall of the hollow cone and thus in connection with the external ring control the positions ofsaid cone and its adjuncts. This member ,52 is formed on or aliixed to the upper :end of a sleeve 60 which is splined to. a verticallyv extending cutter-A rod .61 having` capacity for oscillatory .as well as vertical movement within Adefined limits, as hereinafter described, and hence the sleevepartakes of the rotary motion of the cutter rod'. In the present instance the sleeve is provided with a circumferential flange 62 which is seated between the cap and body sections respectively of a cylindrical bearing member 63 which is fitted to an orilicein an arm 64C extending forwardly from the frame. The-member 63 is held inl place by a setscrew 65 in the arm entering an annular groove in the said member. A part of the periphery of the flange is cut away, as at 66, in a manner to contact with its: stationary seat and perform the function of a brake to resist the rotation of the cutter-rod, as will be hereinafter described.

The lower end of the vertically-movable frame is provided with va forwardly-extending arm 67 having therein, in ax'ialalinement with the cutter rod, a vertically-adjustable stop, comprising, in the present instance, a screw stud 68, having, preferably, a jam-nut 69 which takes against the underside of the arm. This screw-stud is adapted in the upward movement of the frame to take against the lower` end of the verticallydisposed cutter rod, and force the cutter 70 thereof throughthe opposing fabric, as will presently appear. Thev rod extends through the hollow cone, and bears at its upper end a cutter-head the functional-edge of which extends radially from the center of the rod; that is, one end of such edge is in line axially with the rod, or substantially so, 8, 9 and 10. Thecutter rod has capacity for oscillatory as well as vertical movement within defined limits as above mentioned. It is supported at its lower end in a v'ertical bushing or bearing 7l which is screwed or otherwise secured to the forward eXtension 72 of a bracket 73 on' the rear wall of the casing. The rod is maintained normally away from the die plate about the thickness ofthe fabric, occupying that position while rotating and while the feed is in operation, as will hereinafter appear. In the present instance the means for thus lowering the cutter rod comprises a spring-actuated crank lever 74e having one end thereof forked to receive a suitably-disposed collar 75 on the rod.` The crank lever is pivotallyI supported on a lug on the-wall of the casing and the longer arm of the lever is yieldingly connected with said wall by a retracting spring 76. The free end of this arm bears against an adjustable stop in the wall of the casing, such as the set-screw 77,' which stop by limiting the outward movement of the opposing lever arm permits'gthe extent of downward movement of the cutter rod and i cutter to be nicely predetermined, as the thickness of the fabric may require.

The cooperative relation fof the cutter and feed mechanisms isV such that when the die plate is engaged rwith the fabric and the relief is brought adjacent the centrally-disposed-` end of the cutter as hereinafter described, the cutter is caused to recede from the relief through an arc of about 120,

and concurrently therewith the feed motion advances the work vtobring the relief in as illustratedY most clearly in Figs.

contact with the centrally disposed end of the cutter. This done lthe cutter swings in the-oppositedirection until its edge contacts longitudinally with the relief, such latter movementbeing comprised anywhere within an arc of about 240; or, in other words, the cutter is movable in one direction about one-third of a rotation away from the relief and in a reverse direction about twothirds of a'rotation toward the relief. The cutter is now raised to engage the fabric and press it against the die plate. ln this motion the cutter does not sever the fabric, but simply holds it in place while the inner surface of the cone and the co-acting eccentric member are setting the feed in position to reengage the fabric for a succeeding feeding operation. lVhen the feed is thus set and engaged with the fabric the cutter is raised to sever the fabric, and then lowered sufiiciently to clear the fabric. The

cutter is then turned awayI from the relief through one-'third of a rotation and at the same time the fabric is advanced by the feed motion. This cycle of operations is repeated until Vthe trimming of the fabric has been completed.

By reference to Figs. 8,9 and 10 of the drawings the successive angular positions of the cutter will be readily understood. In Fig. 8 the cutter is shown in the position which it occupies-upon the completion of its cutting movement. Tn Fig. 9 the cutter is shown in the position which it occupies when swung away from the relief through one-third of a rotation, the dotted lines and varrow heads indicating the extent and direction of its backward movement. It is to be noted, parenthetically, that the feed takes place during this movement.` ln Fig. l0 the cutter is shown in the position which it occupies when swung toward or in the direction of the relief through two-thirds of a rotation, the dotted lines and arrow heads indicating the possible extent and direction 1 of such movement.

inasmuch as the cutter recedes from the relief through about one-third of a rotation and returns thereto through about twothirds of a rotation, it follows that it actually-advances one-third of a rotation, andA lief against the axi al end of the cutter, provision is had whereby.7 the'cutter, preparatory to the trimming operation, severs the fabric diagonally until the relief contacts with such end of the cutter. Accordingly the cutter rod is provided with a laterally-extending stud 7 8 into the rotary path of which a suitably-disposed stop lever .79 is adapted to be set in order to limit the forward movement of the cutter rod to about one-third of a rotation. The lever is pivotally supported on a suitably-disposed bracket 80 in the casing, one arm of the lever acting as a stop for the stud, and the other arm extending to the outside of the casing. The extent of movement of the lever in one direction is deter` mined by a stop pin S1 on the ybracket and in the other direction by the wall of the casing.v The machine is started with the lever-set in the path of the stud, and thus the cutter severs the fabric on a line diagonally of the direction of travel ofthe fabric until the cutter contacts with the relief. Thereupon the lever is manually swung out of the path of the stud in order to permit the machine to times the descent of the rod.

perform its trimming operation along the boundary dened by the relief.

The means herein illustrated for effecting and controlling the vertical clamping ac-y tion of the cutter rod includesa lever 82 which is pivotally mounted at one end on a suitably-disposed lug on the casing. The free end of this lever is provided with a. laterally extending lip 83 which lies directly below the collar 7 5 onthe cutter rod, whereby when the lever 82 is raised the lip contacts with the collar and raises the vcutter rod, and when the lever is depressed said lip This lever is connectedv by means .of a link S4 with one arm of a bell-crank lever 85 which -i's pivoted Y on a stud on the wall of the casing7 the other arm extending laterally adjacent the cam 47 and beingv provided with a roll 86 which `runs in thecam-groove. Hence during the rotation of the cam the crank lever 85 .is oskcillated and the requisite vertical motion .im-

parted to the vcutter-rod controlling lever 82. The means herein illustrated for effecting and controlling the turning motion of the 'cutter rod is as follows: Mounted to rotate on the bushing 71 is a pinion 87 provided with a conical clutch'socket 88 with which co-acts an internal cone member 89 slidingly rod one 'or the other of the clutch members being faced on its acting surface with leather 90X Yor the like. The clutch cone 89-is splined to the cutter rod so that while they shall be rotatable 'as a unit yet they may be movable vertically independently ofeach other. The clutch cone isheld normally in active position by means of a suitably-disposed spring 890. In the present instance a fiat spring is employed, one end thereof being secured to a bracket 891 on the inner wall of the casing and the other or free end pressing upon the hub of the clutch cone. .The bracket is loosely fastened to the wall by anl inner screw 892 below which is disposed an eX- teriorly projecting set screw 893, the point of which bears against the back of the bracket. By -relative adjustment of the screw 893 the bracket may be tilted more or less in orderto vary the force of the spring on the clutch one, as may -be desired, The pinion mesh-es with aA horizontal rack 90 which is slidingly fitted at its respective `ends 75 to guides, provided for instance in the bracket 7 3 and in a,suitablyfdisposed bracket 91y on the casing, whereby the reciprocation of the rack positively oscillates the pinion and its associated clutch member. In the present instance. the rack is pivotally con nected tothe lower arm of a lever' 92' which is pivoted on a. stud on the wall ofthe casing, the upper arm of such lever being connected by means of a link93 with the upper end of `a lever 94 also pivoted on a stud on the wall of the casing. This lever 94 is connected bymeans of a link 95 with the depending arm of the crank lever S5 so as to partake of the motion of the latter, and

.thus through the. mechanism just described l with the ratchet by means of y a suitably disposed'spring 99, 4and is provided with apin which depends into the path of a cam bar securedto and reciprocable with the rack. The acting face of the cam barcomprises two step surfaces 101, 102 connected by an'inicjline 103, suchsurfaces being so disposed in relation tothe rack that during each stroke of the latterthe pin 100 passes from one surfaceto the other, and the dog is thereby in one pe-l riod moved and held out of engagement with the ratchet wheel, and in the other period is permitted to engage and remain in engagement Vwith said wheel. l/Vhenthe dog is disengaged from the ratchet wheel the clutch y cone isfree to rotate, and hence the rotation of the pinion and its associated clutch socket by the movement of the rack is transmitted to the former member and imparted to the cutter rod. lhen, however, the dog is engaged with theratchet wheel, the clutch'cone ythen applied to the drive wheel 49, and

thereby the cam 47 is positively rotated. The fabric is then fed by hand 'under the die-plate until the fabric is engagedvby the toV feed. The edge of the relief on the fabric is brought into contactual relation with the axially disposed end of the cutter, preferably through a preliminary severing operation of th'evcutter as will hereinafter appear. The; feed is given a three-phase Inotion, that is, the feed head being down and eccentric to the axis of the cutter rod, is moved vertically upward to engage the fabric; then horizontally to aposition concentric with the cutter rod so as thereby to advance the fabric toward the cutter, and then lowered on a diagonalpath to its down or yset position preparatory to a succeeding engaging and feedingfoperation; and the cutter is given its timely oscillation and vertical reciprocation relative tothe motion of.

the feed.

In l? ig. 1 the various parts, including the cam, are shown in the relative positions which they occupy when the feed is engaged with and before it leaves the fabric at the end of the feeding movement; that is to say, the feed is raised rand forward; the frame with its ring, is down; the lifting lever 82 is in itseXti-eme down position, and the cutter rod also is in its down position with the cutter swung backward. 1n the succeeding rotation vof the cam the sequence of operations is as follows:

1n the first quarter-turn of the cam the feed remains engaged with the fabric; the

frame with its ring remains down; the rack is moved rearward a full stroke, that is, to the right as viewed in Fig. 1, and the lifting lever is raised to press the cutter against the fabric and thus hold'the latter against the die plate. 1n this-stroke the clutch cone is unrestrained by the dog and ratchet, and hence the. cutter rod is rotated concurrently with the pinion, the cutter being swung toward the relief. Unless its travel be interrupted the cutter will turn about two-thirds of a rotation; but owing to the opposing relief of the fabric the movement of the cutter is checked; that is, the leading side of the cutter contacts longitudinally with the relief and the latter consequently determines the cutting position of the cutter. In the continued travel of the rack the pinion turns idly, by reason of the clutch socket slipping on the restrained clutch cone. At` the end of this idle interval the cutter is pressed against the fabric by the lifting lever. At this stage the cutter does not sever the fabric; it simply presses the fabric against the die-plate and v holds the fabric while the feed is being returned to its set position eccentric to the aXis of the cutter rodvas previously mentioned.

Y 1t is to be here noted that during the rst half of the rearward stroke of the rack the dog drags idly upon the ratchet teeth, and during the remainder of the stroke the cam surfaces 103, 10,1 Of the cam bar contact with the depending pin of the dog and thus disengage the dog from the teeth of the ratchet wheel. By virtue of such action of the cam surfaces on the dog the clutch cone will be unrestrained'during the rst half 0f the succeeding" or forward stroke'of the rack in order to effect the reverse movement of the cutter rod to swing the cutter away from the relief, as will be hereinafter described in connection with the final quarter turn of the cani in its rotation.

In the second quarter-turn of the cam the feed is lowered, and as the hollow cone 31 descends the action of the opposing eccentric on its inner wall deects the feed to its initial or set position eccentric to the aXis of the cutter rod preparatory to rengagement with the fabric.- In this movement of the cam the frame remains in its down position; the lifting lever 82 in its raised position, and the rack in its retracted position.

ln' the third quarter-turn of the cam the feed is raised to rengage the fabric, and the frame is elevated, the stud 68 on the latter thus impinging against the lower end of the cutter rod and forcing the positioned cutter up to sever the fabric. During this period the lifting lever 82 remains-in raised position-and the rack retracted.

In the final quarter-turn of the cam the several parts resume their first-described positions relative to each other, that is, the feed remains up 'and moves the fabric toward the aXis of the cutter; the frame is lowered and the rack is moved forward, that is, to the left as viewed in Fig. 1. ln one part of this stroke owing to the disengagement of the dog from the ratchet wheel of the clutch cone, the cutter rod is turned a distance of, about one-third of a rotation to swing vthe cutter away from the relief, but in the remainder of the stroke the cutter rod and cutter are at rest on account of the locking of said cone by the engagement of the dog with the ratchet wheel. During this final movement of the cam in its rotation, the eccentric of the cutter rod and the ring of the descending frame relatively co-act with the interior and exterior walls respectively of the hollow cone, the ring positively acting to shift the cone to a central position and thus moving the feed in a manner to advance the fabric toward the cutter.

It is to be noted that the fabric is advanced by each forward movement of the feed a distance equal to the 'length of the last preceding cut; that in such movement the trimmed edge of the fabric comprised bythe relief, contacts with the axially disposed end of the cutter, and that, -by virtue of the eccentricl and cone connections between the cutting and feeding devices, the feed is brought into accurate position for each succeeding feed movement, irrespective of the contour or outline of the relief,

f During the above-described trimming op- CAD in its rotation intermittently co-acts with the opposing surface of the bearing member 68 in a manner to brake4 or retard the forward movement of the cutter in opposition to the rotation of the friction clutch, and thusv insure the accurate disposition of the cutter longitudinally of the relief of the fabric that is to say, the cutter, in virtue of its position laterally of the axis of the cutter rod, tends to twist or cant said rod and thus cause the `lower cut edge of the flange to bind against its seat in the member 63,` when the cutter is swung forward into4 longitudinal contactl with the relief, aspreviously mentioned.

Although the fabric may be preliminarily cut in any suitable manner and properly appliedto the machine to bring theyrelief into operative contact with the axial end of the cutter, I have devised and prefer to use the means hereinbefore described for initially severing the fabric by vactuation of the cutter; that is to say, the stop lever 79 is set in the rotary path of the stud 78 on the 'cutter rod so as to limit the stroke of thel cutter ltoward thefrelief to an arc of about 120". Se long asthe movement of the cutter is thus limited the cutter operates to sever the fabric in a straight line diagonally of the direetion of travel of the fabric. When the fabric is cut and advanced a sufficient extent to bring the relief in contact witlr the axial end of the cutter, the lever 7 9 is manually swung out of the path ofthe stud on the cutter rod las previously mentioned. This done the cutter, being free to continue its movement toward the relief, swings until its edge contacts longitudinally with the latter. machine then proceeds with the trimming operation throughout the course defined by the configuration of the relief as hereinbefore explained.

It is to be noted that for certain kinds of fabric a light slender cutter bar may be used instead of the rod andcutter herein illustrated; and also that the cutting mechanism may be constructed and arranged to sever the fabric with a downward instead of an upward stroke.

I claim- In machine of the class described, a

cutter having positioning and cutting movements, the extent of the former being determined bylateral contact of the cutter with the projecting surface configuration of the material to be severed, means for imparting yth-e positioning movement to the cutter, and means for imparting the cutting movement to the positioned cutter.

2. In a. machine of the class described, a cutte-rhavinga rotary positioning movement and a longitudinal cutting movement, the extent of the former being determined by lateral contact of the cutter with the projecting surfacev configuration of thematerial to be severed, means for imparting the positioning movement to the cutter, and

4. In a machine of the class described, a-

feeder, a cutter movable ina path interrupted by the relief of the material to be severed, said-relief affording aguide for the edge of the cutter as thematerial progresses, means for moving the vcutter in said path, and means for actuating said cutter itself to sever the fabric when the cutter is positioned by contact with the relief.-

5.,In a machine of the class described, a cutter, means for rotating the same about its longitudinal axis to position the .cutter itself laterally against the edge ofthe relief for a severing operation, and means for thereafter longitudinally reciprocating the cutter to effect the severing operation. y

6. In a machine of the class described, a cutter rod having at one end thereof a radial cutting edge, means for rotating said rod 'about its longitudinal axis to position the cutter-for a severing operation, and means for thereafter longitudinally reciprocating said rod to effect the severing operation.

7. In a machineof the class described, a cutter rod having at one end thereof a radial cutting edge, means for oscillating said rod about its longitudinal axis whereby in alternate strokes it is positioned for thesev-4v ering operation, and means for longitudinally reciprocating said rod to effect the severing operation when it is thus positioned.

8. In a machine ofthe class described,feed mechanism, an oscillatory cutter .adjacent thereto, one endof which cutter Vcoincides with its axis of oscillationv and is adapted to be positioned by the relief of the fabric to be. severed, means foroscillating the cutter: at predetermined. intervals during the progress of the fabric, and means for periodically reciprocating said cutter longitudinally of its axis.

In a machine of the class described,

feed mechanism, an oscillatory` cutter adjacent thereto, one; end of which cutter coincides with its axis of oscillation, mean-s for oscillating the cutter at predetermined intervals during the progress of the fabric, whereby the relief of such fabric` determines the severing position of the cutter, means for moving, the positioned cutter in the direction of its length into contact with the body of the fabric, and means for thereafter forcing the cutter through the fabric.

10. In a machine of the class described, .a cutting element mounted for rotary and longitudinal movement, means for actuating the said element to impart an oscillatory movement thereto andalso longitudinal reciprocatory movement at predetermined intervals, a feed element mounted for variable movement, and means for actuating said feed element whereby the fabric is yintermittently advanced inclose relation tothe cutting element. v

11. In a machine of the class described, a cutting element mounted for rotary and longitudinal. movement, means.. for actuating the said element, a vfeed element mounted for variable movement, means for actuating said feed element whereby the fabric is intermittently advanced in close relation to the cutting element, and means whereby the said feed element is' positively set for a succeeding operation at the end of each return movement.

v12. In a machine of the class described, a feedelement having capacity for variable movement, means for actuating said element, a cutting element having a part thereof in close relation to the path of the fabric, means whereby the said cutting element is oscillated in respect to the edge of the fabric, means whereby the feed in its return movement is positioned for a vsucceeding feeding operation, and means'whereby the cutting means lfor reciprocating the positioned eleelement is reciprocated longitudinally of its axis lat predetermined intervals. Y

13. In Va machineof the class described, cutting mechanism, feed 'mechanism' including a. feed element adapted to engage and feed the fabric, said feed element mounted for variable movement,y and means under the control of the cutting mechanism adapted-to co-act with the feed mechanism to set the feed element preparatory to each feeding operation thereby.

14. In a machine of the class described, feed mechanism, cutter mechanism including a rotary cutting element, means for oscillating the said element whereby the said element in alternate strokes is positioned by.

the relief, means associated with the cutter mechanism arranged to co-act with the feed mechanism for setting the latter to feed the fabric in the direction of the cutting element after the latter is thus positioned, and

ment.

15. In a machine of the class described, cutting mechanism including a rotary cutting element, and means for oscillating said element'including aL friction clutch connection and intermittent locking means therefor, whereby the said cutting element in alternate strokes is positioned by the relief of the fabric.

16. In a machine of the class described, a cutter rod and cutter, means for periodically reciprocating said rod longitudinally of its axis, a pinion, `a friction clutch connection between said pinion and the cutter rod, a rack for oscillating the pinion, intermittently-acting locking devices `for the clutch connection, means controlled by the rackfor periodically effecting the unlocking of the clutch connection, and means for periodically reciprocating the rack.

17. In a machine of the class described, cutter mechanism including a rotary cutting element, means for oscillating the said element, whereby the same in .alternate strokes is positioned by the relief, a brake device for the cutter mechanism, and means for reciprocating the positioned cutting element.

18. In a machine of the class described, a cutter rod and cutter, means for oscilla-ting the said rod whereby the said element in alternate strokes is positioned by the relief, a rotatable brake member with which said rod is slidingly connected, a stationary brake seat therefor, and means for periodicallyreciprocating the said yrod longitudinally of its axis.

19. In a machine of the class described, feed mechanism, including a hollow cone member and means for imparting variable movement thereto, a ring encircling said member, means vfor periodically raising and lowering the ring, a cutter rod extending axially through said cone member and provided at one endy with a cutter, means for oscillating said rod whereby the cutter in alternate strokes is positioned by the relief, a brake member with which said rod is slidingly connected, a stationary brake lseat therefor, an eccentric on said brake member arranged to co-act with the inner wall of the cone member, and means for periodically reciprocating the said rod longitudinally of its axis.

20. In a machine of the class described, feed mechanism, a. die member, a cutting element, and means wherebysaid cutting element is actuated to clamp the fabric against the die member vduring the return stroke of the feed mechanism and then to sever the fabric.

21. In a machine of the class described, feed mechanism, a die member, a cutter element, means for moving said element laterally toward vand from the line of severance of the fabricat predetermined intervals, and means for longitudinally actuating said eleice IOS

ment whereby it is set to clamp thev fabric against the die memben during the return stroke of the feed member and then to sever the fabric; l

2'2f.-In a machine of the class described, feed mechanism, a die member, a cutter rod and cutter, means for periodically oscillating said rod and cutter, means for maintaining the said rod and cutter yieldingly depressed, means for raising the rodlat one period to press the fabric against the die member, and means for further raising vthe rod at another period to sever the fabric.

23. In a machine of the class described, the' combination offfeed mechanism, cutting mechanism, including a rotary cutting element, means for oscillating the said element whereby the said element in alternate strokes is swung laterally toward the. relief, and manually operative means for-'temporarily limiting the extent vof such alternate stroke.

2a. In a machine of the class described, the combination of feed mechanism, cutting mechanism including` a rotary cutting element', and' means for oscillating. the said element including a friction clutch connection and intermittent locking means therefor, whereby the said cutting element in alternate strolresis swung laterally toward the relief' of the fabric, together with means for temporarily reducing the .extent yof the movement of said cutting element toward the fabric.

y 25. In a machine of the class described, a cutter rod and cutter, means for periodically reciprocating saidv rod and cutter longitudinally of its axis, a pinion, a friction clutch connection lbetween said pinion and the cutter rod, a rack for oscillating the pinion, intermittently-acting locking devices for the clutch connection, means controlled by the rack for periodically effecting the unlocking ofthe clutch connection, means forv periodically' reciprocating the rack, a stop on the cutter rod, and manually operative means movable intoand from the rotary path of said stop'. vv

26; In a machine ofthe class described, feed' mechanism including a feed element having capacity for variable movement, cutting mechanism including a cutter element, ha'fx'fifn'g` capacity for horizontal oscillation and vertical re'ciprocation, a system of lever and link connections for controlling the periodic positions' of the feed and cutter ele- Copies of this patent may be-obtained for ive cents eac11,by addressing the ments, and a cam for actuating and 'controlling said devices. Y

27. In a machine of the class described, a feed element, a cone supporting the same, actuating mechanism for the cone including auniversal joint connection, a reciprocating frame having a ring encircling the cone, means forr'eciprocating said frame, a cutter rod and cutter mountedfor horizontal oscillation and vertical reciprocation, a-setting device located withinthe cone, said device being eccentric to and rotatable by the said rod yet permitting vertical movement of the rod, means for periodically oscillating said rod and cutter, means 'for' normally depressing said rod and cutter', means for partially raising said rod and cutter, and means on the frame for subsequently bearing against and further raising the cutter rod.

28. In a machine of the class described,

cutting mechanism including a rotary cut-V ting element, frictional means for rotating lsaid element from and to the cutting posifabric, and then moved to a set position,

said means including aV member controlled bythe fabric. f I Y 30. In feed mechanism, a feed element',- means for imparting an up and downmotion to said element, means for shiftingsaid element forward when it isin up position, and means for shifting said element rearward to set position during-its downward movement, said last-named means including a member controlled bythe fabric. ff 31. In feed mechanism, a feed element', a' conel supporting the same, actuatingmeans for the cone including a universal joint connection, a reciprocating frame' having a ring encircling the cone, means( for reciprocating said frame, a setting device located within the cone, and kmeans controlled by the fabric for determining the position of said device relative to the cone.

Signed at New York in the Stateof New ,York this 29th lday of December A. D. 1913.

'CHARLES D MATTISO'N.

Witnesses: v Y

' JOHN R. NoLAN,

B. CHANDLER SNEAD.

Washington; D. C.

county and 

